Passive Solar Design

 
solar hot waterWhen considering the layout of a home, most people would never consider to take into account the literally billions of watts of solar power that pour over the surface of the house year round.  Proper passive solar design requires advantageous orientation of the home, and is the best way to ensure that it collects the maximum amount of solar energy possible when it's really needed, and also to try to guarantee that an adequate amount of shade is available in the hot summer months.
 

How can passive solar design be done simply?

It's all about orientation! A home positioned with one of its walls perfectly aligned with true south (not magnetic south) stands to benefit the most from the techniques of passive solar design. It also ensures that one side of the home will experience a great deal of comforting shade in the winter.
 
Deciduous trees are a favorite of many a passive solar design enthusiast. They can provide just the right amount of shade when placed on the side of the house that experiences the most summer sun. Then, in autumn and winter, the leaves fall off and expose the home to more sunlight, just when it's the most welcomed. Evergreen trees, like cedar and pine, should be placed near the northern and eastern faces of the home, providing an excellent windbreak.
 
Don't forget windows!  Passive solar design requires the right kinds of solar collectors, and windows fit the bill as the biggest and simplest collectors you'll use.  Here are some window tips:
  1. Windows aligned vertically are situated to take in the winter sun, when it's low in the sky, while blocking as much of the hot and relatively high summer sun. Vertical windows should be placed on the south side of the house.
  2. Buy the best windows you can afford. Probably the best for this application are triple-pane, Krypton gas filled. (No, not the stuff from Superman).
  3. Some glass is known as low-emissivity..."low-E" for short. It contains a microscopically thin metal or metalic oxide layer or layers deposited on an inner-surface of the window. The purpose is to suppress radiative thermal conductivity and result in very low heat flow. These are great for homes with traditional heating and cooling to keep the AC from fighting the heat pouring in from the windows. However, in a passive solar design, they are murder on winter-time efficiency.
  4. When you are building in windows that you plan to be able to open, place them on the side of the house that gets the most wind, as well as on the side directly opposite. They can be used to instigate flow at night in the hot summer.
And of course, don't forget insulation 
 
As noted on my page about solar energy systems, it is FAR better economically to try to trap whatever heat is already building in the home rather than spend money on systems to generate more, EVEN when the energy source is free (the sun or wind).  The equipment will cost you something.  You want to insulate your home as best as you can afford before buying a bunch of new equipment.  Some homes I've seen that focus on proper passive solar design are so well insulated that you could fire a gun inside and never hear it outside with the doors closed, thanks to the insulation.  (Not that I'd want to).
 
Leaky doors, windows, power outlets, rafters, attic spaces, walls and floorboards can quickly kill any of the precious heat buildup inside the passive solar design home. Not that in this case, you are focussing on building your home just like a greenhouse. 
 
Many people think that a greenhouse is designed to limit the escape of radiative heat (the heat that radiates in through windows, for example). In reality, it is focussed on stopping the loss of convective heat, which is heat that is generated in the house, say by heating of the floors and walls by the sun, that then heats the air inside. It is this hot air that you are attempting to trap.
 
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